Living On The Edge - Motorcycling In The Chilean Andes

Waiting for my "blind" motorcycle guide to take me onseen. It's a mix of Arizona and the Swiss Alps, with
a ride through the Andes is very stressful. It's not thatmetres-high, oddly shaped cacti along the side of the
my guide cannot see, as that would come with someroad and snow-capped jagged peaks hiding behind
serious stresses of its own, it's that we have nevermore jagged peaks. The valley we travel through on
met and there is a slight possibility he is a murderer.our hour-long ride is other-planetly - hot, dry, remote,
Wolfgang, a German friend of mine who testssilent, almost all grey and brown. An occasional brave
prototype BMW bikes for a living, told me that "Ricardocyclist or local villager on a horse passes by.We glide
from Santiago" would be happy to take me for athrough turn after turn, the old Coyote reminding me of
motorcycle ride while I was in town.My family,how bikes used to sound, the glaring sun reminding me
however, was convinced that "taking me for a ride"that I am still wearing layers like a fool. And as we ride,
was really code for killing me, so I asked WolfgangI quietly melt inside my windbreaker.
whether his friend was a murderer. He rather angrilyRicardo pulls the bike over into a sandy lot. He tells me
replied that Ricardo could not be a bad guy becausethe road ends here because it becomes private land,
he often lets out-oftown motorcyclists stay at hisused for electricity. I see a guard of sorts sitting in a
apartment. Apparently, killers cannot also be goodhut watching the road. I had seen small villages during
hosts.our ride and wondered if there was a café
In the meantime, Ricardo is 45 minutes late for our ride.nearby where we could take a break, giving me the
And as I sit outside my Santiago hotel, I am convincedchance to remove my layers. Ricardo tells me there is
that every 50cc scooter that passes by is his. I am onnothing here but desert, so I sit on the sand, pour water
a corner of two busy streets and there is no shortageover my head, lather on the suntan lotion and finally,
of motorcycle traffic in this city of six million, especiallygratefully, peel off my clothes, much to the delight of
since it is summer and 34 degrees hot. At one point, athe guard, who presumably does not see too many
very heavy man pulls up to the hotel on a 250ccforeign stripteases in the course of his day. We turn
scooter and I think, "We are never going to make it uparound, me happily able to breathe in my T-shirt,
a mountain." Moments later, a shiny red bike, long usedRicardo grumbling about being hungry. We ride out,
but proud in character, pulls up. A man wearing ataking the time to stop and pose with cacti along the
bandana, sunglasses and a five o'clock shadow evenway.
though it is barely noon, shuts off the engine and holdsOnce we leave the valley, Ricardo starts reading the
a helmet out for me. "Ready?" he says, not mentioningsigns along the road out loud. I have no idea what he is
his tardiness. "Definitely," I say, and climb aboard hislooking for but I sure do know when he finds it: we
1992 600cc Honda Shadow, hoping it is not a dumbswerve off the side of the road, kick up sand, make a
decision.hasty U-turn and pull into the lot of a barely visible
Ricardo is wearing a T-shirt and jeans and I amrestaurant. He's found what he's looking for, and it
dressed for the ski slopes. I knew it was plenty hot inincludes corn, eggs, chickens, a dog and a cat. We
the city, but once we reached the Andes, I was certainwalk through the restaurant, where only a few people
I would need a sweater and a windbreaker. Truth is, Iare dining on the back porch, and take a seat in the
didn't need either - a lesson I would only learn once Iopen back area, surrounded by greenery. A young
stopped breathing due to heat exhaustion. Until then,man is sitting on the porch playing classical guitar,
me, Ricardo and my layers of clothing head offsinging love songs to himself. The owner comes out,
toward Santiago's mountain playground, Cajónexchanges chit-chat with Ricardo. There is no need
del Maipo. With me firmly anchored on the back of thefor a menu, says Ricardo. He knows exactly what he
Shadow he calls Coyote, we are stuck in longwants and he proudly orders one for us to share. He
weekend traffic but happily immersed in conversation.tries to explain to me what is in the dish: "It is pastel de
We ride through wealthy suburbs where the hired helpchoclo, perhaps translated as 'cake corn' in English." He
walks the dogs, and poorer neighbourhoods where thetells me you can only eat this meal in the summer
dogs walk themselves. Ricardo tells me he has beenbecause that is when the corn is ready.
riding for 11 years. He bought this bike last yearWhen the dish arrives, it looks a lot like onion soup
because the model suits his style, which I am guessing(yum!) or a cheese soufflé (delicious!), but it is
by the bandana and the tardiness is laid-back. As weactually a national treasure, a dish made of corn and
head out of town, the traffic builds. It is New Year'schicken and eggs (really not delicious!). I have to find a
weekend and everyone is leaving the steam of thepolite way to refuse this honourable dish. Adding to my
city. In Chile, due to its geographic slimness, people cantroubles are a large dog and a cat, both of which are
make a quick escape to the sea or to the mountains,stalking our table, placing a particular emphasis on the
both within an easy drive of everywhere in thedish. Even fluffy dogs want a taste. But I don't, so I
country.smile, speak quickly, sip my Coke with vigour and
We are heading to the Cajón, about 60watch while Ricardo consumes the whole thing. The
kilometres from Santiago, an area where wealthierguitar player comes up and asks us for money. I think
Chileans keep second homes. While we stop and starthe's terrific and give him the equivalent of $2. Ricardo
and weave our way through traffic, Ricardo asks metells me it's the norm to give 25 cents and that I have
why I chose not to ride my own bike. It is a fairlikely made his week by giving him two bucks. Making
question since I have been riding motorcycles for asomeone happy for that price seems like a bargain.
few decades. As I get older, I find the concentrationAfter an hour or so we get back on the bike to head
required to negotiate unfamiliar mountain passeshome. Along the way, Ricardo asks if I would like to try
exhausting. And then there is my overall riding problem.another national "something" and I say yes, really
One European tour leader gave me the nicknamemeaning no.
"Cappuccino," and not because I am speedy. He toldA few minutes later we stop at an ordinary roadside
me that I ride so slowly, it's as if I were sitting on astall, except this one has tables set up steps from the
terrasse enjoying a coffee. As I am telling Ricardo thisbusy road and it is absolutely packed. As far as I can
story, two motorcycle policemen pull up behind us. Itell, every single person here is sipping from a large
continue to chat and point and snap photos, but almostcup and then digging into the same cup with a spoon. I
fall off the bike when the police sirens come on. Oneam secretly hoping this is a popular Chilean milkshake
bike stays behind us with his lights and sirens blaringstand, but of course that is not the case. Ricardo tells
while the other comes up beside us. The policemanme the name of the drink is mote con huesillos, with
waves and shouts something at Ricardo, who listens"small peaches, boiled wheat and juice," but
and then nods. Once he does, the sirens stop. I ask himunfortunately all I hear is "corn and chicken and eggs." I
what that was all about and he says, without any ironysmile, pretend to take a sip and then smile some more.
at all, we were travelling too slowly and the policeThe ride back is quiet until we hit the Santiago traffic
wanted him to speed up. It seems myonce again. We have been on the road for six hours
cappuccino-ness extends to the passenger seat asand Ricardo, having practised a whole lot of English, is
well.probably happy to get home. He weaves between
In the Cajón del Maipo area, you can rockcars using my legs as buffer. I had told him I would
climb, horseback ride, hike, bike and jump into a hotsmack his helmet every time he went in between the
spring, but all I see are mountains. We are on a pavedcars. So for the better part of an hour there is a lot of
road and this Cappuccino Gal is sitting back andsmacking going on. And a lot of laughing.We take
relaxing, taking in the view, camera in hand. I amself-timer shots as we ride through the city. He points
already in awe as we ride along, but when we turnout areas of interest and I sit back in my cappuccino
onto El Alfalfal road, the beauty really begins. Themanner and enjoy the ride. If Ricardo is a murderer, at
scenery here is different than anything I have everleast I will go out with a smile.