| The first step is draining the oil. (Very important), this | | | | come from the engine itself. It'hasn't been run in and |
| must be done even before you start the engine. When | | | | the engine still has rough particles that have broken off |
| Pit bikes come from the manufacturer or I should really | | | | and absorbed by the oil. |
| say the engine manufacture, they are tested to see if | | | | By draining the oil you remove the weaker moister |
| all the mechanical parts work but the manufacturer | | | | capturing oil along with the metal shavings. These |
| does not run it in. From the journey overseas to your | | | | shaving however minute can ruin your engine internals |
| country the engine manufactures put in a substitution | | | | over time. replace the engine oil with a branded engine |
| engine oil just for this journey. This oil's only purpose is | | | | oil. Motor bike engine oil 15w-40w for 4 stroke bikes |
| the absorb moisture comes from the sea which is built | | | | trusted brands like Shell, Valvoline or Silkolene. You will |
| up in over the duration of the journey. When you drain | | | | need to add about 850ml-900ml (less than a liter) for |
| the oil by removing the sump bolt (usually a 17mm nut) | | | | 125cc engines, a little more for 140cc or 150cc oil |
| if you look closely the color of the oil won't be that | | | | cooled engines. |
| dark in fact it looks like cooking oil. It will contain a lot of | | | | After replacing the old oil with the new oil, go through |
| bubbles which is water trapped in the oil. This is the | | | | the running in process which is ride the bike for two |
| moisture from the sea captured by the oil. | | | | tanks of fuel at half throttle only. Strictly only use up to |
| The second important thing you will notice is the oil | | | | second gear for this stage then open the throttle after |
| contains small engine shavings. These metal shaving | | | | run in and go hard. |